![]() Sanding with medium and then fine sandpaper will add to the patina. To re-create the look of a beautiful antique that has been repainted over the years, Parsons employs a repertoire of resist methods, techniques that use Vaseline, beeswax, or hemp oil to prevent the second coat from adhering and permit the bottom layer to show through. She offers plenty of tutorials for the milk paint novice. Milk paint, however, can be temperamental. Parsons also likes that she can mix just the amount of milk paint needed for a particular project and can regulate the desired opacity. She loves that milk paint is natural, has a long shelf life, “soaks in like stain but looks like paint,” and dries matte. ![]() Parsons has used many paint products and finds that milk paint, along with small bottles of craft store acrylic paints for decorative detailing, meets her furniture refurbishing needs. It wears away around the edges and handles.” Type of Paint ![]() Parsons warns, “Paint generally doesn’t wear away smack in the center of a drawer front. As a general guideline, distress the high points that would frequently have been handled and bumped, and antique the low points or crevices where dust would have settled. To create a piece that looks like an original, think about how it might have been used. When you antique and distress furniture, you are essentially telling a fictional history. “You don’t want to scratch the piece, but rather rough it up enough to help with adhesion,” she says, recommending medium-grit sandpaper, such as 100, for the job. The Copper will need to be suspended in the container drill or poke holes in the sides of the container large enough to slide a bit of wire through (any type of wire will. Find a plastic container with a lid (clear if possible), large enough to hold your Copper in. The most important prep step is sanding, although Parsons rarely spends more than five minutes on it. First you will need to construct a fume chamber. Her basic rule is, “Buy what you love, but not something that is beyond your ability to repair…unless it is so cheap you have little to lose.” Prepped to Paint She is drawn to the Empire, American Farmhouse, and French Provincial styles, and she looks for solid wood furniture with details such as serpentine drawers, beading, and turned legs that give a piece character and afford opportunity to play with the painted finish. A clear, water based medium, such as acrylic glaze, a pouring medium, water based varnish or you an even use a PVA glue. When choosing a piece to refinish, Parsons considers style, price, and condition. You will need: Metal Powder of your choice 10 parts by weight. Parsons urges anyone who is contemplating trying these techniques to first study genuine antiques and note where the paint has worn away or become distressed from handling and where the finish has become dark and antiqued from the accumulation of dirt over the years. When antiquing furniture, you add layers of paint and stain to achieve a grunge patina, whereas when you distress it, you remove the finish to simulate years of wear. DistressingĪntiquing and distressing are both used to simulate age and they’re often used in conjunction, but they are distinctly different painting techniques.
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